Calzones that tell the story
Corset, petticoats, viso, garter belts, panties and many years later, bodices: the history of underwear can be seen in the Museum.
Mariana Carbajal Lingerie has always aroused sighs throughout history. Even when the underwear, full of embroidery and lace, was hidden under long dresses that reached to her ankles, like those ladies wore Buenos Aires during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The summum for men of that time was such that those ruffles and lace petticoat or peered through the appearances under her skirt when the women went to the car or tram. "It was very sexy," reveals Susan Speroni, director of the National Museum of Costume, until June offered a temporary display on the linen that was used between 1900 and 1950 in Buenos Aires, where information about the story, a more sensual and daring . The lingerie changed very little since the first strophium, silk ribbon that covered his chest Roman women, the feminalia, little silk panties, and interula, shirt kind of underwear made from cotton, linen, lawn or natural silk ladies and gentlemen used both from the Gothic period until well into the nineteenth century, tells Página/12 Speroni, university professor of the history of clothing. Changes in the lingerie accompanied the social transformations, particularly around the lives of women, and the evolution of fashion and were made possible after the appearance of new materials such as nylon in 1939, reaching the revolutionary fiber type lycra. "The first record of the history of the two pieces are famous V century mosaics of the Christian era, Piazza Armerina in Sicily, where there are twelve girls who call the gymnasts showing off what we know today as panties and bras" Speroni said, knowing the evolution of clothing as well as the palm of your hand. The temporary shows offered by the Museum of Costume therefore does not go back in time. It is limited to the first half of the twentieth century. The exhibition spans two rooms and can be visited Tuesday through Friday, Sunday and holidays from 15 to 19, Chile 832, in the neighborhood of Montserrat (Sundays at 17 there are guided tours). In the first of the rooms devoted to lingerie, garments cover the period from 1900 to 1910. By then it was pants, the ladies wore pants. "Only in the seventies will appear short-throw panties," he said Speroni. The man gowns were long shirts, buttoned front. The women's garments "from below" the Belle Epoque, from 1870 until the First World War, all white, were charged with hand embroidery, lace applications, tucks, alforcitas, alforzones, Valencia, inset, monograms, embroideries and bodkin. "The lady of the Romantic period, from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, using a shirt, shorts, corset with garter belt to hold the middle, can lead slips and camisole or viso" lists Speroni. The multiplicity of overlapping underwear did not distinguish social classes, although women differed rich and poor for the quality of the fabrics and ornaments hidden under his clothes who came to the floor. "That lingerie that we see in the sample could not be seen.The summum at that time was that those ruffles and lace petticoats these or overtones peered under her dress when the ladies climbed into the car or tram, says a milonga. It was very sexy, sports director of the museum. In a case can discover several sleeping caps 1920 and tortured corset with suspenders, 1900, a garment which would be used between 1905 and 1907 as part of a change imposed by the great French couture fashion designer Paul Piret, he wanted therelease of such women clothes that were not so ornate, it was going to launch fashion directory, namely the one that makes the waist and takes place under the bust. "Then the underwear will be transformed, becoming more adherent to the body, with less skirt," says Speroni. The second room displays lingerie from 1920-1950. Clearly, the simplification of forms: it appears shirt bra panties, body like the present. "It ended the First World War, rose over the foothills, between 1920 and 1930 changed three times before reaching the knee," is a woman who shows her legs, smoking ... The change was remarkable. From that period is the famous fashion garçon, taken from a character in a French novel of that name, which worked, was released, painted lips, showing the legs, smoked and had a child without being married, "recalls Speroni. The bodice was the invention of an American lady of high society with her maid designed a bra for two "triangles made of scarves tied with ribbons." The idea came quickly to the market. In the 30s and is developing the bra industry, the band starting to take up half the waist to the leg or the thigh covering all of the culotte, panties and combinations. "After the '14 war, goes on to explain Speroni, were left to make piles of war material that they used rubber and rubber and material began to be used in the textile, underwear." Among the exposed underwear briefs stands a man of principle century with belt included to hide the tummy and get the fractions remain impeccable. The funny thing is that this garment was never released: the label still has original store Gath & Chaves.